Staying Close to the Magic: Inside the Creative World of Louise Bruun
The acclaimed Hair and Make-up Designer on trusting her instincts and remaining a student of her craft
By: The Lace Ledger Staff
Louise Bruun was 19 when Nicolas Winding Refn asked her to work on his first feature, Pusher. She had never done it before, but agreed anyway, kicking off her creative career. One of the actors in her chair was another newcomer: Mads Mikkelsen.
Decades later, Bruun is still saying yes to the creative unknown. Only now, she brings a formidable career’s worth of experience with her.
Her work has moved between the immediacy of fashion and the permanence of film, teaching her to trust an instinct while continually sharpening it. On a major production, she keeps herself close to the lens, where creative decisions can evolve alongside the scene in “reel” time. When a project changes course, she changes with it. After decades spent creating extraordinary aesthetics, she still considers herself a student of her craft.
That willingness to adapt is central to Bruun’s process. She arrives with an informed point of view but remains open to what other artists bring to it, allowing the project to take shape through collaboration.
Her latest film with Refn, Her Private Hell, offers a spectacular canvas for that philosophy. The film draws Bruun back into the horror that first captivated her as a teenager, now with a wealth of experience across fashion and film to draw from.
We spoke with Bruun about trusting her creative instincts and the creative possibilities that emerge when artists inspire one another.
Dressing the Part: Costume Designer Sarah Runnalls on Yaga and the Visual Language of Character
Inside the creative process behind Yaga in anticipation of its TIFF 2026 premiere
By: The Lace Ledger Staff
Before Sarah Runnalls was dressing characters for the screen, she was raiding her parents’ linen closet. As a teenager, no bedsheet was safe. Runnalls would take whatever fabric she could get her hands on and turn it into something she could wear, eventually making pieces for friends and selling her creations to local boutiques. She already understood fashion as a form of storytelling: each morning offered another opportunity to decide how you wanted to present yourself to the world.
That instinct would eventually take her from fashion school to Vancouver Fashion Week, where her Sarah Runnalls Collection earned her an Emerging Designer Award. Her work with iconic Canadian drag queen Jimbo introduced another dimension to her designs, beginning with costumes for local theatre before their creative paths led into film and television.
It was there that clothing took on a different responsibility. A beautiful garment became representative of a character’s history and storyline, revealing a world of information before a line of dialogue is uttered. Runnalls became fascinated by the precision of that process and the way a character could evolve visually from scene to scene.
Her latest project, Yaga, gave her particularly rich material to explore. Created by Kat Sandler, the series reimagines a folklore figure whose image has been shaped by centuries of storytelling. Rather than reaching for the familiar visual shorthand of the witch, Runnalls helped create modern women whose power and confidence are embedded in how they present themselves. The female gaze became an important creative guide, resulting in a visual identity that feels contemporary while leaving room for some cleverly placed cinematic references.
With Yaga premiering at TIFF 2026, we spoke with Runnalls about the creative process behind bringing its characters to life and the unexpected path that brought her from making one-of-a-kind fashion to designing entire identities for the screen.
State of Dress: The Dark Feminine FW26 Runway Report
A soft goth study of the season’s most compelling styles
By: Amanda Albert
The FW26 couture collections began making their way down international runways in the spring, offering an early look at what designers imagined for a season that felt distant at the time. Now, as summer starts relinquishing its sweaty hold and fall clothes make their eagerly anticipated annual migration back to the front of the closet, those ideas hit much closer to home.
With fall approaching, our interest in the season’s runway shifts from admiration to application. The collections have had time to settle in our minds, and the prospect of actually dressing for cooler weather gives us reason to revisit the details that caught our attention the first time around. Some will inspire the pieces we pull from storage; others may earn a place on the fall shopping list.
Across the season, designers found extraordinary range in familiar dark feminine signatures, experimenting with transparency and exaggerated proportion while giving accessories an increasingly important role in shaping the silhouette.
Below, we’ve streamlined our FW26 trend report into ten key categories, returning to the collections and creative choices we’re still thinking about just as fall finally gives us somewhere to wear them.
Walk This Way: How to Wear FW26’s Dark Feminine Runway Trends
Six of this season’s soft goth styles making the leap from catwalk to closet
By: Amanda Albert
The first signs of fall arrive almost imperceptibly; the light changes, the evening carries a chill and suddenly the leather jacket you have been eyeing all summer no longer feels wildly premature. For those of us who spend July and August yearning for soft leather and decadent knits, mentally negotiating how soon is too soon for fur, our season has finally arrived.
The runway is where the brightest minds in fashion set their imaginations loose at full scale; the real fun for the rest of us begins when whispers of those creative provocations start seeping into our wardrobes. For FW26, designers gave us plenty of inspiration.
Better still, much of it requires surprisingly few additions to what we already own. A strategic flash of sheer can change the complexion of an all-black ensemble, while extravagant texture gives familiar silhouettes fresh dimension. Patterned tights introduce print without asking us to abandon our beloved black palette; an imposing pair of sunglasses can shift the attitude of everything beneath them.
That is where couture fantasy meets practiced street style. We’re drawing inspiration from the ideas that had us spellbound as they came down the runway, translating them for mornings when there is somewhere to be, a temperature to contend with and absolutely no runway waiting at our feet.
This fall, a few calculated tweaks are all it takes. Here are six FW26 ideas we’ll be putting into practice, bringing a little of the artistry that thrilled us on the runway into the lives we dress for every day.
Choose Your Major: Three Ways to Wear Dark Academic Style
From Gothic Academic to Literary Rebel, consider your fall wardrobe enrolled
By: The Lace Ledger Staff
Dark Academia may have its signatures, but there is no single uniform waiting at the library door. Follow the aesthetic across eras and characters and its familiar codes begin to shift, moving from the precision of collegiate dressing into historical romance before wandering into the beautifully eccentric territory of traditional menswear. We think of them as different courses of study within the same discipline, each offering its own visual vocabulary.
For fall, we’ve broken out three of our favourite approaches and translated their cinematic references into wardrobes made for real life. Wednesday brings the severity of Gothic Academic, Mary Shelley inspires the softer provocation of Literary Rebel, while Sherlock Holmes makes a compelling case for Eccentric Intellectual. Your own curriculum can follow wherever the semester takes you, from campus to the office and every extracurricular pursuit beyond it.
Drop Dead Gorgeous: 9 Iconic Gothic Beauty Looks from the Screen
The cinematic hair and makeup moments still haunting our beauty routines
By: The Lace Ledger Staff
Smudge it. Sharpen it. Tease it sky-high. Some of cinema’s most memorable beauty looks reached far beyond the screen, awakening something in generations of spooky girls who finally saw a version of beautiful that felt like home.
For those of us who grew up surrounded by Baywatch bombshell perfection, trying on those versions of femininity could feel a little like playing dress-up in somebody else’s closet. Then we met Morticia Addams. Nancy Downs rimmed her eyes in black. Akasha appeared dripping in gold. Suddenly, beauty could be strange. It could be severe or even a little frightening, and still leave us completely mesmerized.
These characters gave us something to recognize ourselves in and, perhaps more importantly, something to experiment with. Their influence stepped out of the screen and landed directly in our vanity cases, where we smudged the liner darker and discovered just how good it felt when the reflection finally looked a little more like us.
These nine iconic looks helped set our spooky souls—and beauty routines—ablaze.