Subculture in the Spotlight: Manchester's Inaugural Alternative Fashion Week

Pretty Disturbia's Leesa Bertram O'Neill turns six days of independent fashion into a citywide celebration

By: The Lace Ledger Staff

Subculture in the Spotlight: Manchester's Inaugural Alternative Fashion Week by The Lace Ledger

Pictured: Leesa Bertram O'Neill (left), founder of Alternative Fashion Week Manchester. Photo courtesy of AFW Manchester.

For the true-blue fashion girlies among us, there's an intangible magic to fashion week that no shopping experience can replicate. Even your favourite boutique offers only a glimpse of what a designer envisions; on the runway, an entire creative vision comes alive. Music sets the emotional tempo as makeup and styling reveal the collection's beating heart, while models stalk the runway with an intensity that brings each look to life.

And then there's the intimacy of it all. You're witnessing the birth of something that may have taken years to imagine and months to create, among the very first people to see that vision fully realized. It's a moment you’ll never forget.

You can imagine our excitement, then, when Manchester announced its inaugural Alternative Fashion Week, held October 20–25, 2026. Behind the ambitious undertaking was Leesa Bertram O'Neill, a Manchester Metropolitan University fashion graduate and the founder of independent alternative fashion label Pretty Disturbia. Having spent years immersed in the city's creative community, including running her label from Afflecks and working at Islington Mill, Leesa understood how much exceptional talent existed beyond the conventional fashion circuit. Her ambition was to create something, “less like a traditional fashion week and more like Manchester’s alternative creative world taking over the city for six days in a unique, creative way.”

And what better city to stage such a takeover? Manchester's cultural identity has been shaped by generations of artists whose creativity flourished outside the mainstream, making it a fitting home for an event devoted to celebrating subculture.

“Manchester has always been a city where subcultures create their own spaces, sounds and identities,” Leesa explained. “From punk and post-punk to Northern Soul, rave culture, indie, goth and countless underground creative movements, Manchester has a long history of turning outsiders into cultural leaders. AFW is built from that same spirit.”


Photography: Zea (@nz.photo.mcr)

“Alternative Fashion Week Manchester was created from a simple belief: subculture deserves a runway,” shared Leesa. “I wanted to create something that challenged the traditional fashion week format and gave independent designers, alternative creatives and Manchester’s subcultures a space to be seen, celebrated and taken seriously.”

And take the runway they did. Across SITU at The Alan and Gullivers, theatrical presentations brought Manchester's alternative fashion scene roaring to life, with Rags by Jak opening the show. Modern Streets experimented with interactive fabrics, while Eli Restitches led the charge with sustainable upcycling.

The Royal Exchange costume department contributed theatrical one-offs, and Pretty Disturbia unveiled four distinct collections, including a collaboration with Twilight Couture featuring handmade crowns and masks. Fashion became performance as Eyona's violin, Cherie Bebe's burlesque and live music from Enave enriched the spectacle.

Photography: Zea (@nz.photo.mcr) and Nikki Hibbins (@nikki_hibbins_photography)

The runway was only the beginning. Across Manchester, Alternative Fashion Week transformed familiar venues into spaces for artistic exploration and community connection, inviting visitors to become part of the performance.

  • The Black Veil Ball: Gothic glamour took over HOME for an evening of theatrical nightlife, featuring burlesque by Cherie Bebe, violinist Eyona and live music from Enave. Four independent makers joined the lineup for an intimate night market.

  • The Alternative Clothes Swap: Sustainability became a social affair at Islington Mill, where guests exchanged pre-loved fashion through a clever token system. A £5 ticket even included a glass of Prosecco.

  • Living Art at Afflecks: Pretty Disturbia brought the occult window to life with live mannequins showcasing different collections across two days, turning an ordinary shopping trip into an unexpected fashion encounter.

  • Pinup Life Drawing & Student Showcase: Artistic participation took centre stage at Afflecks, where a ticketed life drawing event featured artwork by RyRu and Nastygalnoods. A student fashion showcase also gave emerging designers their moment in the spotlight.

Reflecting on the inaugural week, Leesa added, “What made the week so special was seeing that vision become a reality. From theatrical catwalk shows and live music to burlesque, violin performances, community projects and independent fashion, every event had its own identity while sharing the same spirit of creative rebellion.”

Subculture in the Spotlight: Manchester's Inaugural Alternative Fashion Week by The Lace Ledger

Photo Credit: Zea @nz.photo.mcr

The Dead Dolls Trail carried the artistic momentum beyond the scheduled programme, inviting visitors to discover handmade dolls displayed in independent shops, cafés and bars across the city centre.

These curious little characters were created using repurposed materials and brought sustainability into the conversation while encouraging visitors to explore the local businesses supporting Manchester's alternative community. An imaginative way to turn the city itself into part of the experience.


Leesa's achievement extended well beyond championing alternative design, bringing visitors into the heart of Manchester's underground fashion scene through an ambitious programme of immersive events. Reflecting on this achievement, she affirmed, “I’m incredibly proud of what we created together, and I hope this is just the beginning of something that continues to grow while staying true to its roots.”

We're thrilled that plans are already underway to build on the inaugural success of Alternative Fashion Week Manchester, which will return October 20–25, 2027.

In the meantime, the festivities continue with pinup life drawing on November 25 and an alternative clothes swap on December 2. Visit the official AFW website for upcoming announcements and event details.

For more independent designer spotlights and alternative fashion discoveries, subscribe below to receive The Lace Ledger's free monthly digital issue directly in your inbox.

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